It's
been a while since I've blogged anything useful. Actually, it's been a while
since I blogged, so I might as well start by blogging something useful. For
Christmas last year, I received a Martin Backpacker guitar (link to zZounds), which
is a fun little travel guitar with a pre-puberty voice. Some people call it a
mandolin, and some people call it a ukulele, but regardless of what it actually
is, for me it's a travel guitar.
I
had also been playing with an iRig
with my full sized acoustic guitar. Combined with their Amplitube app for iPhone and a pair of
headphones, I could turn my acoustic into an electric guitar and a set of
effects pedals, which was good fun. Nonetheless, playing a full sized acoustic
guitar at home has a benefit: You can play it nice and loud without any
electronics, and it sounds great. The Backpacker, on the other hand, has
nowhere near the volume nor the depth of a full-sized acoustic guitar, so the
idea of amping it on the road with nothing more than a cable and an iPhone was
very tempting.
Thanks
to the Internet, I quickly learned a number of things:
- Martin used to make a Backpacker that came with a
pickup! Apparently, it was an under-saddle "Thinline" pickup.
- A number of people had added pickups to their own
Backpackers.
- From a number of discussion threads that I read, people
couldn't figure out how to get their hands inside the Martin Backpacker to
do all the necessary installation work for a pickup that would replace the
guitar's end pin with a jack for the pickup.
Having
thus done my detailed research, I stumbled upon a sale at Strings and Beyond (BTW
- great store!) and promptly purchased the Martin Thinline 332 pickup. When it arrived, I
carefully unpacked it, examined it, realized that I was in for more than I had
bargained for, repacked it, and let it sit unused for four months. It sat
unused until this weekend, when I finally decided that no seemingly impossible
job was going to paralyze me with fear for significantly more than four months.
I'm
going to make a long story short: Having read the instructions some 19 times,
and having examined both the guitar and pickup in great detail over and over, I
decided to follow the instructions carefully and thus, after five or so hours
of work, I failed to get the deed done. I then used that failure as an excuse
to buy more tools (since there are still a few that I don't own), thinking that
I could somehow Rube Goldberg a complex collection of tools into reaching
inside the body of the Backpacker and somehow doing what I was incapable of
doing previously with my inadquate collection of twenty-odd thousand tools.
Fortunately,
upon returning home with my latest tool acquisitions (which totally rock, I
might add), I accidentally discovered the secret of how to install this thing!
Realizing that there were at least three other people in the world who could
benefit from this knowledge, I started taking pictures. And here's the
"aha!" moment:
Yup,
it's just that simple. The "outside" part of the jack unscrews from
the jack. OK, you probably already knew that, but I didn't. It's nowhere in the
instructions, which I had read at least 23 times by this point in the day.
Previous to this, I had to figure out how to screw the rear retaining nut
(shown on the jack above) and the wire shielding (not shown) onto the jack from
behind -- while the jack was in its proper place in the guitar. Now, I could do
just the opposite! I could put the washers and rear retaining nut on, screw on
the shielding, and then just pop it out the jack hole and screw on the outside
parts! (I could have saved so much time had I realized this up front!)
I'm
not going to repeat what is in the tiny little instruction booklet; you can
read that yourself some prime number of times. (The only thing you really need
to know is that .094" is a 3/32" bit; that is important.) So,
here's what I did:
1.
Obviously, I started with the guitar strings out of the way, so I could get to
the hole:
2.
After I carefully (oops!) drilled out the hole, I used one of my shiny
metal "hook" tools to measure the depth of the guitar wall to
determine where the rear retaining nut would have to go. It turns out that you
have to leave right around 20mm of thread exposed on the "rear" portion
of the jack:
Note
that my jack didn't fit flush due to my poorly drilled hole. A couple of things
to keep in mind (some of which I should have thought of myself):
- First, don't go straight to the 15/32" bit. Work
your way up.
- Second, Google for some advice on drilling without
messing up the wood; I'm supposed to know better myself, but I screwed
this part up.
- Third, even if you do mess up the hole slightly, the
end cap of the jack will hide a millimeter or two of mess.
- Lastly, if the jack doesn't fit flush, just get a round
rasp and carefully widen the inside portion of the hole that
is preventing the jack from sitting flush; only widen it enough to get the
jack to sit flush!
3.
Now, let's verify that the jack is ready to go! Use a long twist-tie (or string
or wire) to keep this part simple:
Yes,
that's a single twist tie that goes through the jack hole and out the sound
hole. You're going to probably use this a few times! Let's see how the jack
fits. First, we adjust the rear retaining nut to where we think it will be, and
feed the jack through:
Notice
that we can put that twist tie through the handy holes on the "outside
portion" of the jack. I fed it through without the annoying washers and
added a millimeter or so to account for that. If you do feed it through with
the washers, save yourself some frustration and do so with the jack hole of the
guitar pointed to the ceiling -- that way, as you feed it, the washers stay in
the right place!
4.
Once we've figured out where the nut will go, it's time to put this thing
together! Time to get out the soldering iron. Tip #1: you can gently
adjust the pieces of metal on the back of the jack to make room for your
soldering work, which is especially handy if you're as out-of-practice as I am:
I
stripped the wire by hand -- unfortunately, you don't need a fancy tool for
this job:
(Despite
that, I bought a couple extra expensive wire strippers, just to soothe my
grief.)
Twist
the shield wire together, and keep it separate and out of the way. Bare just a
few millimeters of the inner wire, again using your fingernails -- at the most!
OK,
once this thing is soldered, we're not going to be able to put anything else
onto the wire, so make sure you have the shield in place (i.e. the wire going
through it!) before you solder:
(I
know that's an obvious point, which is why after doing it wrong once, I didn't
repeat that mistake all day!)
You
can also trim the wire if you are so inclined. Here you can see that I stripped
the wire before I trimmed it, affording me the chance to strip the wire for the
third time:
Pre-tin
the wire ends:
Solder
them on:
(Notice
the handy soldering clamp from Radio Shack .. these tools do eventually come in
handy!)
Carefully
straighten out the bent pieces of the back end of the jack, and then crimp the
wire holding parts (so that the stress doesn't go onto the solder joints):
5.
Let's assemble it! Screw on the shield, and double check the location of the
rear retaining nut:
Remember
to put the washers on in "front" of the retaining nut, and then
attach the twist tie through the holes in the top of the jack:
Now,
stand up the guitar so that the jack hole is pointed toward the ceiling, and
pull the jack through!
(Here
you can see the 2mm of collateral damage from my drilling escapades. Please
ignore.)
And
now for the easy part!
The
only tricky part here is keeping the jack from falling back in while you do
this, and keeping it from turning (which would eventually put a small amount of
strain on the wire). I used my Long Pointy Tool (tm) to hold the jack in place
while I tightened the front retaining nut:
And
voila! The moment I was looking forward to:
In
conclusion, this wasn't actually that hard of a project, but I did waste many
hours trying to figure out how easy it actually was. I will say that the guitar
appears to be made for this particular under-saddle pickup, which certainly
helps. If anything, make the .094" (a.k.a. 3/32") hole in the saddle
slot slightly large and more sloppy at the top of the hole so that the pickup
has some slight additional room to vibrate; my first installation attempt
didn't do this, and the pickup was unable to pick up the bottom E and A strings
as a result. My liberal interpretation of the 5.9mm offset rule for the
location of the wire hole also resulted in the high E string getting slightly
less pick up than the adjacent B string. (Translation: In the instructions,
"no less than 5.9mm" also happens to imply "no more than
6.0mm".)
When
it was done and re-strung, I was quite pleased by the result, enjoying it with
the iRig/Amplitube combo. Also, a slightly cheaper option than the iRig is the Woodees version. I prefer the ones that plug into
the headphones plug of the iPhone, since that lets me concurrently plug a
charger into the iPhone.
Hope
it helps! Have fun!
